Sewing Archives - Textile Student

What is PUCKERING / SHARING?

July 10, 2023 SHOHIDUL ISLAM Garments, Sewing

What is Seam Puckering?

The unwanted waviness of the fabric along the seam line is called seam pucker or seam puckering. This may be apparent immediately after sewing. Most of the time, sewing threads are referred to as responsible for seam puckering. But, without sewing threads, there are so many reasons or causes for occurring seam puckering such as fabric structure, seam structure, needle size, feeding problem, uneven thread tension, and so on. This can be seen after sewing and sometimes after washing of garments. There is a great possibility of seeing seam puckering in case of more plies of fabric sewing together. This article has shown the main reasons for occurring seam puckering.

Reasons for Seam Puckering in the Garments:

The main reasons for occurring seam puckering have mentioned in the following:

Unequal / Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies,
Fabric dimensional instability,
Extension of/in sewing thread,
Sewing thread shrinkage,
Fabric construction,
Mismatched patterns.

1. Unequal stretch on the plies of fabrics: When two or more plies of fabrics are sewn together. Then the fabric of each of the ply is supposed to be fed at the same time and at the same speed. But for any reason, especially if there is unbalanced stretch among the plies of the fabrics, one ply of fabric will be more fed than the other, as a result, seam puckering is created along the sewing line. This type of puckering problem happens mainly due to the limitation of the feeding mechanism of the machine. For example, in ordinary drop feed machine, it is very difficult to remove the feed puckering problem. If feed puckering is to remove, the feed mechanism of the sewing machine should be of good quality. In order to remove feed puckering in drop feed sewing machine, need skilled operator and fabric is to be handled in special mechanism.

2. Fabric dimensional stability: When two or more types of fabrics are sewn together, later on, especially after the washing of the garments, if the shrinkage of one fabric is bigger than the other, then the differential puckering is created. Before sewing of the fabrics of two or more types together, need to know the properties of their shrinkage. If the shrinkage difference of the two fabrics is 2% or more than that, then if those fabrics are sewn together, puckering will be created.

3. Extension in sewing thread: During sewing of fabrics, various types of tension happen on the sewing thread. Specially, the tension on the needle thread is bigger than the tension in under thread. Due to this tension, thread is extended to a great extent. After completion of sewing, the garments are removed from the machine, then due to the tension free condition, both fabric and thread, return to their normal volume after being shrinkage. If the shrinkage of both fabric and thread are same, then seam puckering problem does not occur. But, if the thread shrinks greater than fabric, then seam puckering will be created.

In case of puckering due to the extension of sewing thread, sewing arrangement is to be done using the tension of thread as less as possible and if possible, the problem can be solved also by changing the thread.

4. Sewing thread shrinkage: After sewing of the garments with sewing thread, for any reason, if the sewing thread shrinks, then seam puckering is created by gathering of the fabrics along the sewing line. This type of puckering is generally visible after washing and ironing of the garments.

Before sewing of any fabrics or garments, the shrinkage properties of fabric and sewing thread should be learnt. The shrinkage of synthetic sewing thread after washing is very little, because of this, in using this thread, there is no apprehension of such problems.

5. Fabric construction: During sewing of very densely woven fabrics, that means the large number of warp and weft threads per inch, the threads of the fabrics being displaced around, creates the space for sewing thread. As a result, seam puckering is created by gathering of the fabrics along the holes created by needles. This type of puckering happens for the densely woven fabrics and no appreciable solution is possible by mechanical adjustment of the sewing machine. If puckering is created due to the densely woven fabrics, then it is very difficult to remove it totally. But for reducing the rate of puckering, at least to some extent, steps that can be taken are discussed below:

The amount of puckering will be reduced if relatively fine thread and fine needles are used.
If the stitch density per inch is reduced, then also the amount of puckering will be lower, to some extent.
If possible, fabric is to be cut to some extent bias (15 to 20 degree) and then sewing, then puckering may be less.
If possible, chain stitch has to be used instead of lockstitch, then problem may be less.
If possible then fabric itself should be changed.

6. Mismatched patterns:

Puckering will create when two different size patterns are sewn together.
The designer is responsible for this. But can be occurred due to the wrong selection of patterns.

7/10 Pcs inspection QA

July 9, 2023 SHOHIDUL ISLAM Garments, Sewing

Garment inspection during the stitching process is a critical quality control measure that directly impacts the final product. This article explores the significance of inspecting garments at the stitch level and its positive effects on overall quality. let’s get into it…

Completion of goods completed by the operator is 7/10 pcs.
Inspection would be done.
If the goods are found to be defective, the seller.
6M Methods Analysis Keret Heb.
If the cause of Defects is Man, then stop it.
And if the same problem is found, then Production
Feder 10 Iminators should be able to solve the problem.
Even if the problem is not solved, the Man Change will be done.
Defect if caused by other 5 methods, then immediately
10 minutes of production book was solved by Heb. Parvat
Also if the same problem is found, please refer to Tahel
The work of the machine will continue except for the low price estimate.
According to the rules, the work of the machine is clockwise.
I would like to see it. (From Input Machine to Output Machine)
When there is no machine and load, immediately stop the machine
Heb would report.

To create high-quality garments, stitch-level inspection is indispensable. By maintaining seam alignment, enhancing stitch quality, rectifying stitching flaws, and complying with quality standards, manufacturers can deliver exceptional garments that satisfy customers and uphold their brand reputation.

Responsibility of sewing supervisor

February 23, 2017 Engr. Md. Mustak Ahmed Fabric, Fashion, Garments, Sewing

Cloth is most known particular things we used since we were baby and still we use it every single day in our life social life. This cloths we wear, is not so easy to produce, its take a long journey in production factory. One of your garments is required to look after by too many responsible people. Today’s our discussion related one of them is called sewing supervisor. Sewing section is the unit of garments which is responsible to make a proper shape and extended life of stitch to maintain the buyer quality standard.

Responsibility of a sewing supervisor

Responsibility of a sewing supervisor is not like a desk job and work eight hours in a day. It’s very difficult to explain who has no personal experience in garment sector especially in underdeveloped country like India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and many more. Sewing supervisor need to attend his/her duty in on production floor with hundred of sewing operators. Every production needs thousand of worker in a unit and in charge of all of them are production manager. In that case the production manager is unable to look after all of those workers so they need sewing supervisor to maintain a unit amount of worker and operator. A sewing supervisor also observed by production manager, they get order from manager and done the job by worker. After complete the task the supervisor submit those production information in corporate office by order of production manager.

Responsibility of production supervisor

Planning and organizing production schedules
Take a look of the project and resource total amount of raw material.
Style Analysis with expert mind to get buyer requirement.
Estimating, negotiating and agreeing budgets and timescales with clients and managers
Ensuring that health and safety regulations are met
Discipline in Shop Floor
Operator Training needs to execute the production without any problem
Line Setting maintain the production system following step by step
Line Balancing and WIP Control
Determining quality control standards
Overseeing production processes
Re-negotiating timescales or schedules as necessary
Selecting, ordering and purchasing materials
Organizing the repair and routine maintenance of production equipment
Liaising with buyers and marketing and sales staff
Supervising the work of junior staff
Machine Selection
Stitching Quality
Meeting Target Production

Required special skill of production supervisor

Confidence on challenging work.
Technical skills in production sector.
Project management skills in relevant area.
Organisation and efficiency in factory
Communication skills with worker and office.
Team working skills with peaceful mind
Computer skill with MS Office and Internet
Problem solving skills to reducing time and money wastage.
Leadership and interpersonal skills to maintain worker.
Calculation skill to calculate any critical production calculation.

Abbreviation

WIP : Waiting to Input

In consolation I would like to share my personal experience. Most of that are requirement I shared in this article is important to do a job in a garment industry as a supervisor. But there is something I didn’t mention in this article which is smartness and ability to maintain a good relation with boss and workers. So make a position by yourself don’t give-up the sector by thinking that garments is too harder job than you thought. Best of Luck!

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